Perfect. That’s what I thought after finally navigating through the McMansion outskirts and arriving in downtown Bend, Oregon. Too perfect. So perfect, it’s creepy. As pleasant as the downtown area is in late June, I can’t help having the feeling that I’m Jim Carey in “The Truman Show.” Something’s weird about this place.
The “Bite of Bend” was in full swing when I pulled into town. It still is. Maybe the festival is responsible for bringing in the most stylish, well-off seeming, exclusively white people I’ve seen since living in Orange County, CA. Or maybe I’m just used to the just-got-back-from-a-week-of-hiking-and-look-and-smell-like-it style that is en vogue in Seattle. 10-year-olds with Airwalks, Oakleys, and Nike hats. Who wastes money on their kids like that outside of “the OC”?
It’s not just the people, though. Downtown feels manufactured. It feels like Tremblant, outside of Montreal, like Whistler village, or like Vail, Colorado. I get the feeling that the cleanliness of the streets and sidewalks, the meticulous landscaping, the “old town” look of downtown’s theater and shops, and the unnaturally manicured bend in the Deschutes river that give the town its name, bring in walletfuls, fistfuls, carloads of money.
Bend has definitely “been discovered.” By rich young families seeking a safe playground, by retirees, by the Harley set, by the REI set, by everyone. My favorite, though, are those athletes who consider themselves EXTREME!. Surely you’ve seen them before. Here is the look: tattoos, close-cropped hair with sideburns, full-suspension mountain bikes, brand-name clothes, flip-flops, maybe a trucker hat over large-lensed sunglasses. They look like the dudes and babes out of Jackass or some other MTV “reality” show. It’s a package worth thousands of dollars, and I have no idea how they put it all together.
Bend is in an undeniably gorgeous spot, and if you drive down from Seattle, take I-90 to Yakima and hook up with highway 97 South, all the way to Bend. It will bring you into and back out of the Columbia River gorge. Then, it becomes an “Avenue of the Volcanoes” that the South American highway through Ecuador can’t match. Snow-capped inverted cone after snow-capped inverted cone appears, rising above the patched-green farmland. Ranier, Adams, St. Helens, Hood, Jefferson, the Three Sisters…. If you’ve forgotten that this area is part of the Pacific Rim of Fire, this drive will remind you just how close we’re living to all that pent-up lava.
After so much driving, there was mountain biking to do, and Bend is supposed to be “it”. What I found out after driving so far is that Bend is not “it” in late June. The trails on Mt. Bachelor are still under three feet of snow, I’m told. Bend is also not “it” if you arrive three hours before sundown with no map, a very vague idea of where the trails are, no place to stay, and a personal pledge not to pay for a motel. There’s one campground close to town, and it’s full, I’m told. You can just drive out one of the dirt roads past Phil’s trail, the local favorite, and pitch a tent. It’s Bureau of Land Management land, I’m told. Totally legal.
So, that was my plan. I drove out to forest road 4604 and kept going, looking for a suitable place to pitch a tent. The road got bad, then worse. My hand-me-down Oldsmobile Alero sounded like it had rusted bed springs for shocks. There were old campsites, all right, scattered with the requisite half-burnt books, Budweiser cans, wads of disintegrating toilet paper, and ratty old clothes that scream “homeless camp!” I wasn’t going to camp here. I had about an hour of sunlight left, a very antsy dog, and a foul mood.

So, instead of my low-cost, three-day vacation of epic biking and quiet camping, I got about 45 minutes of biking on very fast, flat, well-groomed trails in the waning daylight. That’s not optimal for me or for the dog. Not when we’re out there together, at least. For Tebow, the riding is too fast, and for me, it’s much too slow. So, we compromised: I rode slow and he sprinted like hell.

Night found us in a “smoking” room at the local Days Inn. The next morning’s riding was more of the same, but way hotter. Now, we’re sitting on the sidewalk in front of “The Crepe Place” in creepily-perfect downtown Bend. Tebow’s absolutely crashed, and I’m ready for much more riding. But it’s too hot to leave him in the car, he howls when left alone in a hotel room, and chews through his leash when tied up outside. So, we’re heading home, and we’re sure as hell driving the same route.
